Why Concrete Block Steps Fail in Madison Winters (and What We Build Instead)

Thinking about replacing your front steps or rebuilding an old landing?
If you're in the Madison, WI area, you’ve probably seen step systems made from concrete blocks- also called CMUs (concrete masonry units). They're inexpensive and easy to find at big box stores. But when it comes to outdoor steps that last, especially in a freeze-thaw climate like ours, they fall short.

Here’s why we don’t use them- and what we recommend instead for long-lasting, code-compliant, and beautiful hardscape steps.

1. CMUs Shift More—And Fail Faster

Step assemblies made from CMUs often use dozens (or even hundreds) of small pieces glued together. Each one becomes a point of weakness when the ground shifts- which happens often during Wisconsin winters.

Common issues with CMU steps in our climate:

• Loose or uneven steps

• Failing adhesive joints

• Cracks or crumbling edges

• Tripping hazards

• Repeated, costly repairs

By contrast, a single large slab—whether it’s natural stone or cast concrete—stays put and withstands movement much better.

2. Fixed Block Sizes Make Code Compliance Difficult

One of the biggest problems with CMU step systems is that they’re not flexible enough to meet building code.

Most concrete blocks and caps come in set sizes like 3", 4", or 6". That sounds convenient- until you try to build a staircase and realize the riser heights don’t add up.

Residential step code requires:

• Step risers between 4" and 7¾"

• Consistent height (less than ⅜" variance between steps)

• Tread depth of at least 10"

Trying to make that work with off-the-shelf blocks often leads to:

• Steps that feel awkward or uneven

• Violations of local building code

• A stair system that doesn't fit the actual grade of your property

That’s why we custom design each step assembly based on the site and then custom cut large-format materials to get the exact riser heights and tread depths needed—code-compliant and visually clean.

3. Freeze-Thaw Cycles Destroy CMUs

Madison winters are brutal on porous materials like CMUs. These blocks absorb water, and when that water freezes, it expands—causing internal damage that worsens over time.

Even when rated for outdoor use, CMUs are prone to cracking, flaking, and adhesive failure. It’s one of the top reasons clients call us to replace their failing steps after just a few years.

4. Winter Maintenance Is More Difficult

CMU steps have a lot of joints and seams, which means:

• Water gets trapped

• Ice builds up unevenly

• Snow is harder to clear

On top of that, salt and chemical deicers should never be used on CMUs or natural stone. Salt breaks down both the block and the adhesive, leading to faster failure. We recommend sand or calcium magnesium acetate instead- but smoother surfaces like large stone treads make winter care much easier overall.

5. Our Preferred Approach: Custom-Cut Stone or Precast Treads

Rather than building around the limitations of modular blocks, we take a smarter approach:

• Natural stone slabs (like limestone or bluestone)

• Precast concrete treads cut to size

• Custom riser heights based on actual site grade

This allows us to create step systems that are safer, better looking, and built to last. Whether you’re replacing a few steps or rebuilding your entire front landing, we’ll help you choose a solution that’s tailored to your space.

Built for Madison Winters. Designed for Real Life.

CMU steps may seem like an easy fix, but in our experience, they’re rarely worth the long-term hassle. Between code issues, winter damage, and maintenance concerns, they just don’t perform in our climate.

If you're planning to replace old steps, rebuild your front landing, or take on any hardscape renovation, we recommend skipping the blocks and choosing solid, lasting materials from the start.

Cage Match: Your Plants vs. Madison’s Wildlife

If you live in Madison, Wisconsin and care about your garden, you’ve probably been at odds with some of our local critters. Rabbits, deer, voles…herbivores get hungry and our garden plants make a great meal. Winter is no exception.

When cold weather settles in, some plants, especially rabbits, settle in with their favorite snow-bound food: the tender inner layer of bark on woody plants. The cambium (often paired with the phloem, which sits just outside it) is a thin, living layer full of sugars and nutrients, which makes it especially appealing to rabbits, voles, and sometimes deer. When animals chew all the way around a stem or trunk, it’s called girdling, and it can kill the plant because the cambium is what transports water and nutrients up and down. Most mature trees and shrubs have strong enough bark to keep animals out, but young and newly planted trees and shrubs are vulnerable- especially certain species. Protecting those new plantings with thoughtful, effective caging is an important part of preparing your garden for winer.

Why Caging Fits Our Philosophy

At Aspen, we value quality, sustainability, and doing things right. Caging can seem like an extra step, but it’s really part of a proper planting plan.

• Local ecology matters. We design plantings that reflect the site, the neighborhood, and Wisconsin’s climate. Caging helps ensure those plantings survive the first winters and thrive long-term (think of it as planting smart and protecting smart).

• Client-focused & site-specific work. Just as we tailor our designs to each property, we recommend caging based on site conditions — deer pressure, exposure, and how the landscape “sits” in its surroundings.

• Value over time. A well-placed shrub or tree is an investment. Protecting that investment early saves time, money, and heartache later.

How to Cage — With Purpose and Care

There are a lot of ways to cage well, but here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Use sturdy, durable materials- not flimsy mesh. Think galvanized hardware cloth or quality wire fence shaped into a cylinder around vulnerable parts of the plant. There are some high-quality rigid mesh guards for trees that work well, too, though they tend to be a bit more expensive. You can buy them from reliable suppliers like A.M Leonard.

2. Size appropriately- cages should be generous to allow for growth and snow load. Be sure the holes in the caging are small enough to keep out young rabbits!

3. Install proactively- ideally before the first significant snow, giving plants protection before winter stress begins.

4. Top to bottom protection- be sure the cage bottom touches the ground and the top of the cage is tall enough to protect the plant after significant snowfall

5. Remove at the right time- once spring has reliably arrived, but after risk of late-winter browsing or freeze damage has passed. (Lindsey likes to wait until the clover is up.)

What We Recommend Caging

The big question! Caging needs depend on conditions and herbivore pressure, but there are some plants that really shouldn’t be forgotten. If you have any of these at your home, we highly recommend caging them this year:

• Fothergilla

• Aronia

• Roses

• Serviceberries (Amelanchier)

• Young crabapples (Malus)

• Young fruit trees- especially apples, pears, and quinces

• Oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) in areas with especially high rabbit pressure

• Young arborvitae in areas where deer browse

  *Ecology note: If you want to protect your trees and shrubs, but are worried about the rabbits getting enough food, give them twigs to eat rather than the main trunks and stems! Do a little pruning on your trees (ideally after the coldest part of winter has passed) and leave the young branches on the ground.

Whether we planted them or not, if you have questions about caging your plants for winter, feel free to reach out to us. We’re honored to be a part of making our community more a vibrant and beautiful place. And because we know Madison - the microclimates, soils, neighborhoods, and wildlife- our recommendations for plantings and protection are rooted in real experience, not cookie-cutter checklists. Fill out our contact form here to reach us.

Hydrangea Season- Five Hydrangeas We Love!

It’s the middle of summer and peak hydrangea season in Madison, WI. Hydrangeas are some of the most beloved flowering shrubs in American gardens, and for good reason: they offer long bloom times, bold texture, and a harmonious presence in the landscape. They also are so nice for cut flowers- most drying beautifully for beautifully for winter bouquets. There are several types of hydrangeas commonly grown in the Midwest, each with their own form, flower style, and preferred conditions.

A Quick Guide to Hydrangea Types

• Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth hydrangea):
  Native to the eastern U.S., these bloom on new wood, which means they flower on the current season’s growth. This makes them reliable bloomers even after harsh winters. They can be pruned hard in late winter or early spring to maintain shape and encourage vigorous flowering.

• Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle hydrangea):
  Also blooms on new wood, so you’ll get consistent flowering year to year. These are very cold-hardy, and also tolerate more stronger sun than most hydrangeas. Prune in late winter or early spring to shape or reduce size.

• Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf hydrangea):
  These bloom on old wood—last year’s stems. This means flower buds can be damaged by late frosts (though I’ve never seen this) or improper pruning. Prune only after blooming, and avoid heavy cuts in fall, winter, or early spring. These are best shaped minimally to preserve next year’s blooms.

• Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf hydrangea):
  Typically bloom on old wood, though newer reblooming varieties can flower on both old and new wood. In our climate, winter injury often kills the buds, leading to inconsistent blooming. That’s why we rarely plant them here (though that may change with newer, hardier cultivars).

Here are our current top five favorites:

1. Haas’ Halo

Hydrangea arborescens
This native hydrangea has big, saucer-like lacecap flowers that span up 8 inches across. The white blooms hover like halos over deep green foliage, attracting lots of pollinators. The sturdy stems resist flopping—a common complaint with older smooth hydrangeas. It's beautiful in partial shade and tolerates clay soil well. If I’ve done a planting design for you, it probably has a Haas’ Halo Hydrangea (or five) on it. I just love them.

2. Invincibelle Spirit II

Hydrangea arborescens
This improved version of the original Invincibelle Spirit offers stronger stems, richer pink flowers, and better overall performance. The blooms emerge a deep, saturated rose and age gracefully to soft blush, creating a multi-tonal effect through the season. It also brings in a fair number of pollinators for a mop head hydrangea! It’s a dependable choice for sunny or partly shaded gardens- and still supports breast cancer research with each purchase. We have some of these in our nursery right now and are always admiring them.

3. Quick Fire

Hydrangea paniculata
This early-blooming panicle hydrangea earns its name—it flowers a full month before most paniculatas, starting out creamy white and quickly turning rich, antique pink as the season progresses. It’s extremely adaptable and thrives in full sun to part shade. The color on these is just beautiful (some popular paniculatas can look a bit garish to me, though I’m sure they have their place- I think they could be pretty cute in front of an ice cream shop!) It’s one of Eric’s favorite plants. If you want to make him happy and hear him say the word ‘gorgeous’, show him a blooming Quick Fire.

If you're tight on space, Little Quick Fire offers the same excellent performance in a smaller form, topping out around 3-5 feet.

4. Jetstream Oakleaf Hydrangea

Hydrangea quercifolia
We love oakleaf hydrangeas for their bold leaves, exfoliating bark, and four-season appeal. Jetstream is a compact, refined variety with dense foliage, strong stems, and upright white flowers that turn pink as they age. It also boasts some of the best fall color of any shrub—fiery reds and oranges that rival maples.

Other oakleafs, like ‘Alice,’ are also excellent, especially if you have room for a larger, more sprawling plant.

5. Invincibelle Lace

Hydrangea arborescens
This newer introduction offers a lacy, airy form on strong stems with dark, dramatic foliage. Its lacecap blooms are pink and delicate. It has the same native toughness as other arborescens types and brings an elegant, naturalistic vibe to the garden.

Let us know if you’d like help choosing the best hydrangea for your site- at Aspen Garden and Landscape, we’re always happy to talk (and talk and talk) about plants!

Preserving What We Have

When designing new landscapes, one of our core principles is to preserve as much of the existing site as possible. This means less time spent, less money wasted, and fewer resources discarded. Re-purposing existing materials, transplanting existing plants, and recycling existing soil are all in our wheelhouse. We believe this approach is both ethical and practical, and we’d like to share a few reasons why.

Some of the things we think about preserving on every site:

1. Water
   If your landscape naturally collects water, there’s usually a reason for it. Clearly, water collecting in your basement is not as…aesthetic as water collecting in a small cistern of carefully chosen boulders. We always design landscapes that redirect water and encourage proper drainage, but especially enjoy the opportunity to design with water as a highlight of the landscape. This could be in the form of a small pond, water feature, or even simply a rain garden.

2. Existing Vegetation
   Most homeowners know which plants they don’t want on their property. Fair enough. But what if removing that native shrub on your hillside leads to unexpected erosion? Sometimes, nature pops plants right where they’re needed, performing vital functions like stabilizing soil and supporting local ecosystems. Other times, things need a little adjustment—that’s where transplanting comes in. Working with what’s already growing may take some extra effort, but the long-term benefits are plentiful.

3. Patience Over a Quick Fix
   This ties into preserving existing vegetation. Lots of homeowners envision a brand new landscape as if it were already mature. Plants are living, growing things, they need time to fill out and come into their own. You may look at your freshly planted garden and think “There are so many open spaces!”. Give it time. Perennials usually take off after a year or two. Shrubs and trees are slower. They usually need to recover from transplant shock the first season, then they get used to their new environment the next, and then by the third season they begin to really grow.

4. Grading Before Anything Else
   If your landscape is already directing water safely, cleanly, and efficiently, then we would suggest preserving the overall grading scheme and using that as your base for new design. A landscape that looks pretty, but causes water problems is simply a bad idea.

5. Function First
   Before diving into aesthetics, we focus on function—both of the space itself and the materials and plants we choose. How will you use your landscape? What do you need it to do? Defining these elements early on helps narrow down plant and material choices. A well-designed space balances beauty with purpose. While just-decorative elements have their place, a strong foundation comes from selecting materials and plants that serve a functional role and look handsome.

By working with what’s already in place, we aim to create landscapes that are not only beautiful but also use our resources well. We also recognize that there are always new ways to improve, and we take advantage of those opportunities when they arise. If you see new other ways to preserve what’s at hand, drop us an email and let us know.

Five Favorite Fruit Trees (and shrubs) for Fall Color

Contender Peach in October

We love fall in Madison, Wisconsin: a season of vivid colors, crisp air, and new ways of seeing the garden (we notice so many different things plants change shape and hue.) While our squash vines are being pulled and cosmos are cut back, some fruit trees and shrubs are still out there, giving us impressive autumn displays.

We’re big believers in growing even a little bit of what you eat (I don’t remember much about my Aunt Kathy’s Kenosha backyard, but I remember the few years she had those little Bartlett pear trees, and we brought dozens home in paper bags). We also believe that beauty is good for people and makes us smile.

Here’s our Aspen Garden & Landscape countdown of the best fruit-bearing plants for fall color in Madison, Wisconsin (hardiness zone 5).

#5 Aronia 'Viking' (Aronia melanocarpa 'Viking')

Also known as chokeberry, Aronia ‘Viking’ is a hardy shrub that thrives in Wisconsin landscapes, yielding clusters of antioxidant-rich berries in late summer. Its foliage turns a gorgeous red in autumn, contrasting beautifully with the dark berries.

Number five on our list, the leaves are gorgeous, but the berries are very astringent when eaten fresh (the neighborhood kids call them “super dryers” for the way they dry out your mouth). I like them as they are (especially out of the freezer with a good, dense yogurt), but they can be made into really nice jams, syrups, and jellies (they’re a great addition to apple jellies).

All in all, this is a shrub I always want to have around, but the berries aren’t for everyone. The wood is a favorite of rabbits, so be sure to cage young plants over winter!

Fall Color: ★★★★★
Fruit: ★★

#4 American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

Yes, the American persimmon is hardy here, and it’s not only a North American native, but a standout tree, admired for both its butterscotchy fruit and its beauty (it’s in the ebony family). It produces orange fruit in late fall, just as its leaves shift to shades of yellow, orange, and crimson. Truly beautiful, and the orange fruit glow like little lanterns.

There is some great breeding going on- for the best hardiness and fruit, look for named varieties like Meader, Prok, or John Rick. The trees are also disease resistant and don’t require much upkeep.

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★

#5 Seckel Pear (Pyrus 'Seckel')

Known as the “sugar pear” for its dense, sweet, almost spicy flavor, the Seckel pear is a compact, low-maintenance tree. These lovely little pears are easy to grow, and the glossy leaves take on a rich burgundy color in late fall (see the photo at the top of the post.) This hardy variety thrives in Wisconsin, making a beautiful and long-lived addition to local landscapes.

You can read more about the history of Seckel pears here. You’ll need a pollination partner (I recommend Harrow Sweet, which doesn’t have notable fall color, but does have notable pears).

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★

#2 Contender Peach (Prunus persica 'Contender')

Yes, (some) peaches do grow in Wisconsin- I have three trees on my quarter acre lot and wouldn’t want to be without one. Contender peach is among the hardiest peach varieties, making it well-suited to Wisconsin winters. All summer the leaves are a lovely glossy green, and in fall they shift to shades of yellow, red, and orange, creating a warm and inviting display (see the photo at the top of the post). The fruit in late summer is delicious and abundant.

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★★

#1 Juneberry (Amelanchier spp.)

Everybody loves juneberries. At Aspen Garden & Landscape, we probably plant them more than any other tree, and for good reason. A Wisconsin native, juneberries (also known as serviceberries or Saskatoons) are versatile small trees or shrubs that bring year-round beauty. In spring, they produce delicate white flowers, followed by small, blueberry-like berries in early summer. Birds love these berries, and so do our kids (so do I!)

In the fall, the Juneberries’ sweet, small leaves transform into a striking blend of fiery oranges, deep reds, and golden yellows. The bark is beautiful in winter, too.

Fall Color: ★★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★★

Honorable Mention: American Hazelnut (Corylus americana)

It’s not a fruit, but we had to mention the American hazelnut, one of our favorite shrubs for fall color (and nuts.) In spring, the plants produce long, elegant catkins, and in late summer, with good pollination, they yield small, sweet hazelnuts (I think American hazelnuts are the most delicious hazels- you can support local growers here).

Hazelnut’s leaves just glow in fall- golden-yellow and deep orange. 

Top Five Spring Cleanup Mistakes

Treat your yard with respect and avoid the top five most common spring landscaping mistakes.

1- Working on wet soil. It’s tough. Early spring ushers in a shining sun and singing birds who long to perform for the new, warm world. Those of us eager to get to work slip on our boots  and head out with gusto. But working in soggy, squishy soil, as fondly reminiscent of childhood and enjoyable as it may be, is detrimental for lawns and garden beds.  Compaction is the main issue. Developing a habit of trodding over water-saturated soils (and, worst of all, driving heavy equipment over the wet ground) is a sure way to decrease the vitality of your landscape- and soil health. Wet soil is easier to accidentally compact because, as pressure is applied, water molecules are driven out of the way and the soil molecules are “glued” together under the compression. Imagine making a snowball out of sticky, soggy snow as opposed to fluffy, powdery flakes. Soil compaction impedes water absorption and retention, thus hampering nutrient absorption and resulting in a variety of long-standing issues.

2- Mulching too high. Mulch is a great way to keep weeds under control, provide erosion protection, and aid in retaining moisture, but it is not something to be done hastily. Plants need space for air circulation in order to be healthy. Mulching too close and too thick is counterproductive. A general rule of thumb is 1-2” of mulch for perennial gardens and 2-4” for shrubs. Newly planted trees appreciate thicker mulch, but it is essential to remember to keep the mulch from touching the stem or trunk areas. The same goes with mulching near your home. Keep the mulch off of your siding to prevent unnecessary decay or moisture retention..

3- Raking the lawn. It can feel great to get out and rake all of that decayed debris out of your lawn as it is just beginning to green up, but that brown debris is actually serving a purpose: it is protecting those patches of lawn from the sun which might otherwise warm up the exposed soil, encouraging the germination of the crabgrass or other weed seeds that may have blown in. A gentle raking isn’t necessarily a bad idea in areas with trees that drop large leaves such as oaks and Norway maples, but no need to get carried away and rake the entirety of your lawn. Consider allowing a small amount of winter debris to remain. Eventually, the lawn will fill in those spaces itself as it gains energy in the growing season, and in the meantime, those pesky weed seeds will have less chance of germination.

4- Getting over-committed.  If you only knew how many people call asking for help to resolve issues started by an overzealous partner getting inspired by the beauty of spring, tearing out the whole lawn, and then saying “oh, shit.”  It’s another springtime temptation that some of us just can’t resist. It’s too easy to be swept away by the lure of beautiful perennials in garden stores or fascinating seed catalogs, but making a plan will help you come to terms with reality and improve the likelihood of actually accomplishing your dream! This doesn’t mean your natural pond or front yard prairie can’t be attained. Perhaps it’s just best to work in phases over a few seasons. Or, if you’re the type that likes to get it done all at once, plan on hiring or asking for help. Use that spring fever energy to your advantage and be efficient with a realistic plan of action. And remember, if a landscape contractor needs to be involved, fall is often a better contact time than three weeks into spring.

Forgetting about the pollinators.  Many insects that are beneficial for pollination find refuge in the hollow stems of plants during the winter, so be careful when cutting plants back in spring. If you start too early in the season, many of these insects may still be cozily snoozing in their little winter homes. Waiting until the temperatures are more consistent in spring is ideal. Be on the lookout for cocoons and chrysalises on woody stems too! It’s best to leave those stems and return to them once the insects have emerged. If you’re itching to get things tidy, be mindful when cutting back stems and try placing them in a compost or brush pile where insects can remain until they are ready to emerge. The Xerxes society has some great articles on  spring cleanup practices that support pollinators.

Concrete Landscape Edging and Unintended Consequences

We all, at times, make decisions with an incomplete understanding of the long-term effects- we’re human, and we can’t know everything!

Over the last decade, we've seen a lot of homeowners installing concrete edging around their landscape beds. This edging can create a clean look and be easy to mow against - it's true. The issue we see with the product is that it is a solid "wall" of concrete which can really trap water next to the home. See the photo above- where can the water from the downspout go?

With the number of calls we receive from clients with leaking or damp basements, we are keenly aware of the importance of appropriate grading and landscaping that moves water AWAY from the home. Just a thought... If you have any questions on how to improve your landscape, please let us know.