Hydrangea Season- Five Hydrangeas We Love!

It’s the middle of summer and peak hydrangea season in Madison, WI. Hydrangeas are some of the most beloved flowering shrubs in American gardens, and for good reason: they offer long bloom times, bold texture, and a harmonious presence in the landscape. They also are so nice for cut flowers- most drying beautifully for beautifully for winter bouquets. There are several types of hydrangeas commonly grown in the Midwest, each with their own form, flower style, and preferred conditions.

A Quick Guide to Hydrangea Types

• Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth hydrangea):
  Native to the eastern U.S., these bloom on new wood, which means they flower on the current season’s growth. This makes them reliable bloomers even after harsh winters. They can be pruned hard in late winter or early spring to maintain shape and encourage vigorous flowering.

• Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle hydrangea):
  Also blooms on new wood, so you’ll get consistent flowering year to year. These are very cold-hardy, and also tolerate more stronger sun than most hydrangeas. Prune in late winter or early spring to shape or reduce size.

• Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf hydrangea):
  These bloom on old wood—last year’s stems. This means flower buds can be damaged by late frosts (though I’ve never seen this) or improper pruning. Prune only after blooming, and avoid heavy cuts in fall, winter, or early spring. These are best shaped minimally to preserve next year’s blooms.

• Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf hydrangea):
  Typically bloom on old wood, though newer reblooming varieties can flower on both old and new wood. In our climate, winter injury often kills the buds, leading to inconsistent blooming. That’s why we rarely plant them here (though that may change with newer, hardier cultivars).

Here are our current top five favorites:

1. Haas’ Halo

Hydrangea arborescens
This native hydrangea has big, saucer-like lacecap flowers that span up 8 inches across. The white blooms hover like halos over deep green foliage, attracting lots of pollinators. The sturdy stems resist flopping—a common complaint with older smooth hydrangeas. It's beautiful in partial shade and tolerates clay soil well. If I’ve done a planting design for you, it probably has a Haas’ Halo Hydrangea (or five) on it. I just love them.

2. Invincibelle Spirit II

Hydrangea arborescens
This improved version of the original Invincibelle Spirit offers stronger stems, richer pink flowers, and better overall performance. The blooms emerge a deep, saturated rose and age gracefully to soft blush, creating a multi-tonal effect through the season. It also brings in a fair number of pollinators for a mop head hydrangea! It’s a dependable choice for sunny or partly shaded gardens- and still supports breast cancer research with each purchase. We have some of these in our nursery right now and are always admiring them.

3. Quick Fire

Hydrangea paniculata
This early-blooming panicle hydrangea earns its name—it flowers a full month before most paniculatas, starting out creamy white and quickly turning rich, antique pink as the season progresses. It’s extremely adaptable and thrives in full sun to part shade. The color on these is just beautiful (some popular paniculatas can look a bit garish to me, though I’m sure they have their place- I think they could be pretty cute in front of an ice cream shop!) It’s one of Eric’s favorite plants. If you want to make him happy and hear him say the word ‘gorgeous’, show him a blooming Quick Fire.

If you're tight on space, Little Quick Fire offers the same excellent performance in a smaller form, topping out around 3-5 feet.

4. Jetstream Oakleaf Hydrangea

Hydrangea quercifolia
We love oakleaf hydrangeas for their bold leaves, exfoliating bark, and four-season appeal. Jetstream is a compact, refined variety with dense foliage, strong stems, and upright white flowers that turn pink as they age. It also boasts some of the best fall color of any shrub—fiery reds and oranges that rival maples.

Other oakleafs, like ‘Alice,’ are also excellent, especially if you have room for a larger, more sprawling plant.

5. Invincibelle Lace

Hydrangea arborescens
This newer introduction offers a lacy, airy form on strong stems with dark, dramatic foliage. Its lacecap blooms are pink and delicate. It has the same native toughness as other arborescens types and brings an elegant, naturalistic vibe to the garden.

Let us know if you’d like help choosing the best hydrangea for your site- at Aspen Garden and Landscape, we’re always happy to talk (and talk and talk) about plants!

Preserving What We Have

When designing new landscapes, one of our core principles is to preserve as much of the existing site as possible. This means less time spent, less money wasted, and fewer resources discarded. Re-purposing existing materials, transplanting existing plants, and recycling existing soil are all in our wheelhouse. We believe this approach is both ethical and practical, and we’d like to share a few reasons why.

Some of the things we think about preserving on every site:

1. Water
   If your landscape naturally collects water, there’s usually a reason for it. Clearly, water collecting in your basement is not as…aesthetic as water collecting in a small cistern of carefully chosen boulders. We always design landscapes that redirect water and encourage proper drainage, but especially enjoy the opportunity to design with water as a highlight of the landscape. This could be in the form of a small pond, water feature, or even simply a rain garden.

2. Existing Vegetation
   Most homeowners know which plants they don’t want on their property. Fair enough. But what if removing that native shrub on your hillside leads to unexpected erosion? Sometimes, nature pops plants right where they’re needed, performing vital functions like stabilizing soil and supporting local ecosystems. Other times, things need a little adjustment—that’s where transplanting comes in. Working with what’s already growing may take some extra effort, but the long-term benefits are plentiful.

3. Patience Over a Quick Fix
   This ties into preserving existing vegetation. Lots of homeowners envision a brand new landscape as if it were already mature. Plants are living, growing things, they need time to fill out and come into their own. You may look at your freshly planted garden and think “There are so many open spaces!”. Give it time. Perennials usually take off after a year or two. Shrubs and trees are slower. They usually need to recover from transplant shock the first season, then they get used to their new environment the next, and then by the third season they begin to really grow.

4. Grading Before Anything Else
   If your landscape is already directing water safely, cleanly, and efficiently, then we would suggest preserving the overall grading scheme and using that as your base for new design. A landscape that looks pretty, but causes water problems is simply a bad idea.

5. Function First
   Before diving into aesthetics, we focus on function—both of the space itself and the materials and plants we choose. How will you use your landscape? What do you need it to do? Defining these elements early on helps narrow down plant and material choices. A well-designed space balances beauty with purpose. While just-decorative elements have their place, a strong foundation comes from selecting materials and plants that serve a functional role and look handsome.

By working with what’s already in place, we aim to create landscapes that are not only beautiful but also use our resources well. We also recognize that there are always new ways to improve, and we take advantage of those opportunities when they arise. If you see new other ways to preserve what’s at hand, drop us an email and let us know.

Five Favorite Fruit Trees (and shrubs) for Fall Color

Contender Peach in October

We love fall in Madison, Wisconsin: a season of vivid colors, crisp air, and new ways of seeing the garden (we notice so many different things plants change shape and hue.) While our squash vines are being pulled and cosmos are cut back, some fruit trees and shrubs are still out there, giving us impressive autumn displays.

We’re big believers in growing even a little bit of what you eat (I don’t remember much about my Aunt Kathy’s Kenosha backyard, but I remember the few years she had those little Bartlett pear trees, and we brought dozens home in paper bags). We also believe that beauty is good for people and makes us smile.

Here’s our Aspen Garden & Landscape countdown of the best fruit-bearing plants for fall color in Madison, Wisconsin (hardiness zone 5).

#5 Aronia 'Viking' (Aronia melanocarpa 'Viking')

Also known as chokeberry, Aronia ‘Viking’ is a hardy shrub that thrives in Wisconsin landscapes, yielding clusters of antioxidant-rich berries in late summer. Its foliage turns a gorgeous red in autumn, contrasting beautifully with the dark berries.

Number five on our list, the leaves are gorgeous, but the berries are very astringent when eaten fresh (the neighborhood kids call them “super dryers” for the way they dry out your mouth). I like them as they are (especially out of the freezer with a good, dense yogurt), but they can be made into really nice jams, syrups, and jellies (they’re a great addition to apple jellies).

All in all, this is a shrub I always want to have around, but the berries aren’t for everyone. The wood is a favorite of rabbits, so be sure to cage young plants over winter!

Fall Color: ★★★★★
Fruit: ★★

#4 American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

Yes, the American persimmon is hardy here, and it’s not only a North American native, but a standout tree, admired for both its butterscotchy fruit and its beauty (it’s in the ebony family). It produces orange fruit in late fall, just as its leaves shift to shades of yellow, orange, and crimson. Truly beautiful, and the orange fruit glow like little lanterns.

There is some great breeding going on- for the best hardiness and fruit, look for named varieties like Meader, Prok, or John Rick. The trees are also disease resistant and don’t require much upkeep.

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★

#5 Seckel Pear (Pyrus 'Seckel')

Known as the “sugar pear” for its dense, sweet, almost spicy flavor, the Seckel pear is a compact, low-maintenance tree. These lovely little pears are easy to grow, and the glossy leaves take on a rich burgundy color in late fall (see the photo at the top of the post.) This hardy variety thrives in Wisconsin, making a beautiful and long-lived addition to local landscapes.

You can read more about the history of Seckel pears here. You’ll need a pollination partner (I recommend Harrow Sweet, which doesn’t have notable fall color, but does have notable pears).

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★

#2 Contender Peach (Prunus persica 'Contender')

Yes, (some) peaches do grow in Wisconsin- I have three trees on my quarter acre lot and wouldn’t want to be without one. Contender peach is among the hardiest peach varieties, making it well-suited to Wisconsin winters. All summer the leaves are a lovely glossy green, and in fall they shift to shades of yellow, red, and orange, creating a warm and inviting display (see the photo at the top of the post). The fruit in late summer is delicious and abundant.

Fall Color: ★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★★

#1 Juneberry (Amelanchier spp.)

Everybody loves juneberries. At Aspen Garden & Landscape, we probably plant them more than any other tree, and for good reason. A Wisconsin native, juneberries (also known as serviceberries or Saskatoons) are versatile small trees or shrubs that bring year-round beauty. In spring, they produce delicate white flowers, followed by small, blueberry-like berries in early summer. Birds love these berries, and so do our kids (so do I!)

In the fall, the Juneberries’ sweet, small leaves transform into a striking blend of fiery oranges, deep reds, and golden yellows. The bark is beautiful in winter, too.

Fall Color: ★★★★★
Fruit: ★★★★★

Honorable Mention: American Hazelnut (Corylus americana)

It’s not a fruit, but we had to mention the American hazelnut, one of our favorite shrubs for fall color (and nuts.) In spring, the plants produce long, elegant catkins, and in late summer, with good pollination, they yield small, sweet hazelnuts (I think American hazelnuts are the most delicious hazels- you can support local growers here).

Hazelnut’s leaves just glow in fall- golden-yellow and deep orange. 

Top Five Spring Cleanup Mistakes

Treat your yard with respect and avoid the top five most common spring landscaping mistakes.

1- Working on wet soil. It’s tough. Early spring ushers in a shining sun and singing birds who long to perform for the new, warm world. Those of us eager to get to work slip on our boots  and head out with gusto. But working in soggy, squishy soil, as fondly reminiscent of childhood and enjoyable as it may be, is detrimental for lawns and garden beds.  Compaction is the main issue. Developing a habit of trodding over water-saturated soils (and, worst of all, driving heavy equipment over the wet ground) is a sure way to decrease the vitality of your landscape- and soil health. Wet soil is easier to accidentally compact because, as pressure is applied, water molecules are driven out of the way and the soil molecules are “glued” together under the compression. Imagine making a snowball out of sticky, soggy snow as opposed to fluffy, powdery flakes. Soil compaction impedes water absorption and retention, thus hampering nutrient absorption and resulting in a variety of long-standing issues.

2- Mulching too high. Mulch is a great way to keep weeds under control, provide erosion protection, and aid in retaining moisture, but it is not something to be done hastily. Plants need space for air circulation in order to be healthy. Mulching too close and too thick is counterproductive. A general rule of thumb is 1-2” of mulch for perennial gardens and 2-4” for shrubs. Newly planted trees appreciate thicker mulch, but it is essential to remember to keep the mulch from touching the stem or trunk areas. The same goes with mulching near your home. Keep the mulch off of your siding to prevent unnecessary decay or moisture retention..

3- Raking the lawn. It can feel great to get out and rake all of that decayed debris out of your lawn as it is just beginning to green up, but that brown debris is actually serving a purpose: it is protecting those patches of lawn from the sun which might otherwise warm up the exposed soil, encouraging the germination of the crabgrass or other weed seeds that may have blown in. A gentle raking isn’t necessarily a bad idea in areas with trees that drop large leaves such as oaks and Norway maples, but no need to get carried away and rake the entirety of your lawn. Consider allowing a small amount of winter debris to remain. Eventually, the lawn will fill in those spaces itself as it gains energy in the growing season, and in the meantime, those pesky weed seeds will have less chance of germination.

4- Getting over-committed.  If you only knew how many people call asking for help to resolve issues started by an overzealous partner getting inspired by the beauty of spring, tearing out the whole lawn, and then saying “oh, shit.”  It’s another springtime temptation that some of us just can’t resist. It’s too easy to be swept away by the lure of beautiful perennials in garden stores or fascinating seed catalogs, but making a plan will help you come to terms with reality and improve the likelihood of actually accomplishing your dream! This doesn’t mean your natural pond or front yard prairie can’t be attained. Perhaps it’s just best to work in phases over a few seasons. Or, if you’re the type that likes to get it done all at once, plan on hiring or asking for help. Use that spring fever energy to your advantage and be efficient with a realistic plan of action. And remember, if a landscape contractor needs to be involved, fall is often a better contact time than three weeks into spring.

Forgetting about the pollinators.  Many insects that are beneficial for pollination find refuge in the hollow stems of plants during the winter, so be careful when cutting plants back in spring. If you start too early in the season, many of these insects may still be cozily snoozing in their little winter homes. Waiting until the temperatures are more consistent in spring is ideal. Be on the lookout for cocoons and chrysalises on woody stems too! It’s best to leave those stems and return to them once the insects have emerged. If you’re itching to get things tidy, be mindful when cutting back stems and try placing them in a compost or brush pile where insects can remain until they are ready to emerge. The Xerxes society has some great articles on  spring cleanup practices that support pollinators.

Concrete Landscape Edging and Unintended Consequences

We all, at times, make decisions with an incomplete understanding of the long-term effects- we’re human, and we can’t know everything!

Over the last decade, we've seen a lot of homeowners installing concrete edging around their landscape beds. This edging can create a clean look and be easy to mow against - it's true. The issue we see with the product is that it is a solid "wall" of concrete which can really trap water next to the home. See the photo above- where can the water from the downspout go?

With the number of calls we receive from clients with leaking or damp basements, we are keenly aware of the importance of appropriate grading and landscaping that moves water AWAY from the home. Just a thought... If you have any questions on how to improve your landscape, please let us know.

Top Five Tips for Planning a Home Addition (from a landscaper's perspective)

Adding on to a home is a real joy, especially considering how hard it can be to fit a modern lifestyle into some of Madison, Wisconsin’s smaller houses. We’ve been there, too! It can be easy to get caught up in aesthetics, but when planning an addition, there are practical factors to think about as well. Zoning requirements should be checked before getting carried away with dreaming up a plan, not to mention setbacks and percentage of previous space…

At Aspen Garden and Landscape, we work with a lot of homeowners in the process of adding on to their houses. Here are the top five things we’ve learned about home additions, from a landscaper’s perspective:

1- First and foremost, think about your budget and talk to a landscaper early. Oftentimes, a landscape contractor is called last, but it should be your first step. A good landscape contractor ought to be able to anticipate challenges with things like water management, retention, and grading. Understanding these issues early can save a lot of time and a lot of money- and it will help flesh out the total cost of the project.

2- Conduit and pipes. Once a new driveway has been poured, the house is complete. The exterior steps are finished and maybe a concrete walkway has been poured. But did you think about a conduit or pipe underneath the walkways? These can be very helpful for water management, but are costly to add after the fact. A landscape contractor will bring these considerations up before any concrete has been poured, potentially saving you a boatload in spending. 

3- Don’t forget about gutters. If you are adding a new roof line, it’s critical to consider where the downspouts will be installed. Often, they end up as an afterthought and deposit water in an area that causes icy walkways or other water issues like unwanted flooding. Being strategic will save a lot of trouble, especially in Madison, Wisconsin’s cold, wet climate.

4- Even more important to contemplate is the overall grading. Many, many homes in Madison are built on sloping lots.  While the incline may not seem drastic, when an addition is placed without first evaluating the grading, we landscape contractors are faced with a long list of issues. We've seen many additions that interfere with the natural flow of water and create a dam in melt conditions or during heavy rains- the water has nowhere to go other than into window wells or another easy route to the basement. Often this is the case with window wells installed recently, too. Some of the preformed plastic models have a design that drops down as it extends outward from the house. If the distance between the soil grade and siding isn’t enough, the addition may end up pushing the end of the window well below grade. We were on a site visit a few years ago with an egress window on one side of the home that was flooding the basement. On the other side of the house, a poorly-planned addition was causing similar flooding. Understanding elevations is critical!

5- Consider building retaining walls before the addition! Difficult access means huge cost increases in landscape projects. One way to save money landscaping is to build any necessary backyard retaining walls before putting in an addition. More room to work and more room to dump materials means the project can be done more quickly and efficiently.  Again, completing the walls first requires a solid understanding of the planned grades in order to ensure every aspect will dovetail together nicely, so be sure to inquire about this factor with the installation designer. Furthermore, many new additions necessitate a new driveway. On a narrow lot, this may be the only access point to the backyard. Be sure to have a solid handle on the grading and complete the retaining wall before the driveway is poured!

If you’re planning an addition and want help thinking things through, fill out our contact form to schedule a consultation. We believe in being a resource for our community and do what we can to keep these consultations affordable and bring value to them.

Wake me up Before September Ends

What not to forget about in your rush to an apple orchard or pumpkin patch 

Fall doesn’t have to mean the end of your gardening season! Here in Madison, WI, fall can be a great time to plant things that you want to enjoy next spring and summer- The lack of blistering hot days can help encourage root growth and get your plants nice and cozy in their new home before the snow falls. Some bulbs and seeds also require a dormancy period - by planting in the fall you can fulfill this requirement without the need for unnecessary human intervention...like putting them in the freezer and inevitably forgetting about them and feeling guilty when you find their hollow corpse in a paper bag behind a pizza a year later. NOT speaking from experience.

In the fall you can take advantage of knowing where everything is when making the decision of where you would like to plant bulbs. By taking inventory of where things have spread over the summer you lower the risk of accidentally damaging your great-aunts heirloom plant’s roots in the process.

If your garden is chock full of bulbs already, fall is also a great time for a lawn installation or maintenance. Whether it’s over-seeding an existing patchy lawn, or aerating to assist in the generation of deeper and more resilient roots before the frost, there is still time to take action to have your dream lawn next season. You will also want to be sure to give an extra boost of acidity to your soil near plants that thrive in a low pH like rhododendrons, blueberries and azaleas. You can achieve this by adding soil sulfur. When done in the fall, there is time for the chemistry to take place so your soil is at the optimal pH for nutrient uptake when things start growing again in the early spring. 

Now that you know some new things you can keep your green thumbs busy on- let’s not forget to harvest the last 1000 zucchini from those couple plants you started in the garden a couple months ago….